Do eye creams really work?

Are eye creams worth the money and extra step in your skincare routine? Piedmont dermatologist Jodi Ganz, M.D., highlights the best and worst choices for under-eye skin.

First things first: Do eye creams really work?

“I do recommend eye creams,” Dr. Ganz says. “The skin of the undereye area is very sensitive. Many of the products we use elsewhere on the face — such as retinol — would not do well for this area. I usually recommend products that are hydrating without being irritating.”

She adds that you can begin using a good eye cream at any age.

The benefits of eye creams

Depending on the formula you choose, eye creams can address:

• Dark circles. Choose a formula that contains topical vitamin K to reduce dark shadows.
• Puffiness. Dr. Ganz recommends an eye cream with topical caffeine to minimize undereye bags.
• Wrinkles. “Eye creams can be beneficial for wrinkles,” she says. “I especially like eye creams with growth factors and peptides; these products help to stimulate collagen production and minimize the appearance of wrinkles.”

She suggests consulting with your dermatologist about the best brand and formula for your skincare goals.

When and how to apply eye cream

You may choose to apply eye cream in the morning, at night or both:

• For the a.m. hours, try a lightweight eye cream that contains sunscreen to prevent future wrinkles.
• At night, choose a richer, more moisturizing, SPF-free formula.

If your skin is very sensitive, look for a fragrance-free eye cream.

To apply:

• Using your ring finger, gently pat a pea-sized amount under your eyes. Avoid pulling or tugging your skin.
• Resist the urge to pile on more product — too much cream can get into your eyes, causing irritation.
• Let it absorb for a minute or more before applying makeup.

The ingredient you should never put around your eyes

Retinol is a popular anti-aging ingredient, but it may irritate sensitive undereye skin.

When eye cream isn’t enough

Eye creams can improve the quality of the skin around your eyes, but they can’t fix every undereye concern. When eye cream isn’t enough after several months, your dermatologist may recommend an in-office procedure.

“If you have deep hollows, heavy lids, or deep wrinkles, then other procedures may be needed,” she says. “Sometimes we will use fillers around the eye and there are some lasers that we can use on the eyelids.”

Fillers and lasers around the eyes are considered “off label” treatments, meaning The FDA hasn't approved them for this use.

“We also work closely with our oculoplastics surgery colleagues when we think surgery is the most appropriate option,” Dr. Ganz says.

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